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t wo of the greatest values in 2013 German Riesling are the Keller Von Der Fels and -RR-. Klaus-Peter Keller is considered a pioneer of dry Riesling, producing what is repeatedly hailed as the top Grosses Gewachs in each vintage. Abtserde, Hubacker and Morstein are proudly emblazoned across Keller's labels; they are wines of precision, yet they take many years to reveal their charms. These are intense wines of power and verve, with their razor-like focus on the palate–like a bullet train–which stops suddenly short, only to blossom into an explosion of mineral-tinged fruit. Keller has truly mastered their craft. Unlike most German producers, who still judge quality on a level of ripeness alone, Keller has become a pioneer in the categories of Trocken and Grosses Gewachs, setting their priorities on the vineyard and the gapes. The Von Der Fels excites the palate with its mineral- tinged, pulsating acidity. It's dry to the bone and intense with layers of depth. Whereas the -RR- is all about balance. The -RR-, which contains a trace amount of residual sugar (completely undetectable), shows so much balance and poise; it's like a bomb aching to explode. The -RR- is a really special bottle, coming from a tiny parcel of red earth and limestone within the Kirchspiel vineyard. Both are beautiful for their textural intensity and purity of fruit. ✦ KELLER RIESLING rating bottle Von der Fels Rheinhessen 2013 (1662010) JG 93 $36 RR Rheinhessen 2013 (1662011) JG 91+ $55 Riesling fROM The ROck: WeinGut Keller geRMAny

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