Morrell & Co. Wine Catalog

FALL 2018

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Page 96 of 183

| 97 MORRELL FINE WINE AND SPIRITS V ISIT u S AT MORRELLWINE .c OM cALL 800.96.WINES (800.969.4637) ITA l Y : P I e D mo NT Ga TT i N a R a' S M OST Hi STOR i C L ooking closer at the Nervi winery helps us to understand why Roberto Conterno decided to invest here. As one of the most historic wineries in the region, with significant vineyard holdings throughout Gattinara, Nervi has the potential to reach heights never even imagined by its previous owners. m uch of that potential lies in the m olsino vineyard, an amphitheater of vines that enjoys a perfect southern exposure. m onte Rosa, the second-tallest mountain in the Alps, resides to the north, shielding the vines from chilling winds. In the soil, the high content of volcanic gravel over clay imparts a unique character to the Nebbiolo, adding tension, firm tannins and bracing acidity, which is then tamed and refined through a long aging process in large, neutral oak barrels. It's a classic Gattinara that can mature effortlessly for decades. l ooking to the future, Roberto has gone on record saying that change will come slowly at Nervi. However, if there's one change that seems imminent, it's that the popularity and price are sure to go up. ✦ Nervi Gattinara Molsino 2013 W a 93 » $65 "One thing must be said for both Monfortino and Molsino— these wines benefit from first rate quality of fruit." Monica Larner (1555220) S M a LL i N Size, N OT S T a T u R e W hile touring Alto Piemonte, we find the unbelievably small D o C of l essona. o nly recently has the spotlight been shone here, very much the result of Paolo De m archi of Isole e o lena from Tuscany, who returned to follow his passion for this unique style of northern Nebbiolo. Yet this story isn't about Paolo. Instead, this story is about one of the town's most historic and possibly best producers– m assimo Clerico. The Clerico family has worked the lands around l essona since the 1700s. Today, m assimo and Concetta Clerico run this small winery, so small that their entire vineyard holdings within l essona total only two hectares. o f that, there are four total parcels that make up their l essona bottling, with the best fruit and oldest vines dedicated to the Riserva. l ike most artisans, the Clerico family goes well above and beyond expectations. l essona requires only 85% Nebbiolo, yet they choose to produce a pure Nebbiolo. What's more, the aging of their wines isn't dictated by the limits of the appellation, because m assimo and Concetta age them as long as they deem necessary to create the perfect representation of the vintage, rivaling the aging regimens of Barolo and Barbaresco with their Riserva. ✦ Massimo Clerico Lessona Riserva 2010 VM 93 » $45 "...packs a real punch…superb flavor intensity with no excess weight and fabulous overall balance." Antonio Galloni (1555221)

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